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Written by David Rodgers β Updated March 2026
A wick draws nutrient solution up into the grow medium β the simplest passive setup with no pump, no timer, and no electricity.
A wick system is one of the oldest and simplest forms of hydroponics. Plants sit in a pot of grow medium, a strip of absorbent material runs from the medium down into a reservoir of nutrient solution, and capillary action pulls the solution up as the plants use it. With no pump, timer, or electricity, there is nothing to fail, which makes it a gentle first system for a windowsill herb or small plant. Its limits are real, though: a wick can only deliver so much water, so it suits small, low-demand plants rather than big, thirsty ones. This guide covers how it works, how to build one, what to grow, and how to handle salt buildup. For the other passive system, see The Kratky Method, and to compare all systems, use the Hydroponic System Chooser.
Capillary action is the same effect that lets a paper towel soak up a spill. A wick β a strip of absorbent material β has one end in the nutrient reservoir and the other in the grow medium around the plant. As the medium dries, it draws more solution up the wick.
Cotton rope or felt wicks are common, but avoid anything treated or dyed. Pick a material that is absorbent and clean, and use enough of it for the size of the plant.

A basic wick setup needs only a few items and can be made from household containers.
Thread the wick through the bottom of the pot, fan the top end out in the medium around the roots, and set the pot so the other end reaches the bottom of the reservoir. Fill the reservoir with mild nutrient solution at a corrected pH, then plant.

Use a mild solution. Because water evaporates from the medium and leaves nutrient salts behind, a strong mix builds up faster in a wick system than in other setups.

Wick systems suit small plants with modest water needs. Large, thirsty plants outrun what a wick can deliver.
| Crop | Fit | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Basil, mint, chives, oregano, thyme | Good | Compact herbs are the best match for a wick |
| Small lettuce and baby greens | Fair | Works for a plant or two, but drier spells can slow growth |
| Small houseplants | Good | Foliage plants with steady, low water needs do well |
| Tomatoes, peppers, cucumbers | Poor | A wick cannot supply enough water for a large fruiting plant |
| Anything large or fast-growing | Poor | Use deep water culture, ebb & flow, or Dutch buckets instead |
If a plant keeps wilting even though the reservoir is full, the wick is not keeping up. Add a second wick, use a thicker one, or move to a system that delivers more water.

A wick system needs little attention, but the medium and reservoir still need occasional care.
| Symptom | Likely Cause | Fix |
|---|---|---|
| White crust on the medium | Salt buildup from evaporation | Flush the medium with plain, pH-adjusted water and use a milder solution |
| Wilting with a full reservoir | Wick not delivering enough water | Add or thicken the wick, or choose a smaller plant |
| Constantly soggy medium and a foul smell | Too much wicking or poor drainage | Use a lighter, more free-draining medium and a thinner wick |
| Green slime in the reservoir | Light reaching the solution | Use an opaque container or wrap a clear one |
| Slow growth and pale leaves | Depleted solution | Replace the reservoir solution with a fresh, mild mix |

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David Rodgers is the Founder & Head Gardener of Planting Atlas. With over 40 years of hands-on gardening experience in Oklahoma's Zone 7 climate, he researches, writes, and personally tests every guide on the site.
David draws from real backyard trials, soil testing, and trusted sources like Oklahoma State University Extension and USDA data to deliver practical, zone-specific advice that actually works.
Read more about David and Planting Atlas β